Episode Transcript
[00:00:00] Welcome back to Exploring America, state by state after the monuments and free museums of Washington, D.C. today, we're heading into Virginia, a state that carries more early American history than almost anywhere else in the country. Virginia is known as the Old Dominion, a nickname granted by English royalty for the colony's loyalty centuries ago, and it's also the birthplace of eight American presidents, more than any other state in the Union. This is where English settlers first landed at Jamestown, where the Blue Ridge Mountains roll along the western horizon and where the Atlantic coastline stretches out into the wide sandy beaches of Virginia Beach. Virginia manages to hold colonial villages, mountain wilderness and beach town energy all inside one deeply historic set of borders, and that range rewards travelers willing to spend real time here. Skyline Drive runs the entire length of Shenandoah national park along the crest of the Blue ridge Mountains, with 70 scenic overlooks offering some of the best mountain views on the entire East Coast. The Colonial Parkway connects Jamestown, Williamsburg and Yorktown along a quiet, tree lined road that feels like driving straight through a history book. With commercial signage banned along its entire length. Route 20, through Charlottesville's Wine country winds past rolling vineyards and horse farms beneath the Blue Ridge foothills, and the northern stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway, beginning right where Skyline Drive ends, continues the mountain scenery even further south into the Virginia Highlands and beyond. Luray Caverns hides an entire underground world of towering stalactites and a genuinely unique organ that plays music using the natural cave formations themselves as instruments.
[00:01:46] Natural Bridge, a massive stone arch carved by centuries of flowing water, was once surveyed by a young George Washington and remains one of the most striking natural landmarks in the state. Tangier Island, a tiny fishing community out in the Chesapeake Bay reachable only by boat, preserves a distinctive dialect and way of life that has barely changed in generations of watermen, families, and Grayson Highlands, tucked into the far southwestern mountains, is home to wild ponies roaming open grassy balds with sweeping views in every direction.
[00:02:20] Colonial Williamsburg brings the 1700s to life with costumed interpreters, working trade shops, and an entire recreated colonial capital you can walk through for a full day without running out of things to see. Jamestown Settlement tells the story of the first permanent English colony in America with replica ships and a reconstructed fort right on the water's edge. Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's mountaintop home outside Charlottesville, offers one of the most fascinating architectural tours in the country, packed with Jefferson's own inventions and design quirks throughout the house, Virginia beach delivers a classic east coast boardwalk experience with a wide, sandy beach and a lively oceanfront strip full of restaurants and Arlington National Cemetery, just across the river from Washington, D.C. offers a solemn, moving look at generations of American military history.
[00:03:15] A few things worth Colonial Williamsburg's combo tickets can be pricier than necessary if you only want to see a portion of the historic area, so consider single day passes if your visit is short. Virginia Beach's oceanfront strip has its share of overpriced souvenir shops and tourist restaurants, so wander a block or two inland for better food at noticeably better prices. And at Luray Caverns, some of the paid add on experiences beyond the main cave tour are skippable unless you have extra time to spare on your visit. Virginia is excellent RV territory along I81 through the Shenandoah Valley, a wide, well maintained corridor with stunning mountain views on both sides for miles at a time. Skyline Drive itself is open to RVs, but be aware that the Mary's Rock Tunnel has a clearance of just under 13ft, so taller rigs should check their exact height before attempting that stretch.
[00:04:11] Coastal Virginia around Virginia beach and Williamsburg is flat and easy driving, while Northern Virginia's traffic near D.C. is worth avoiding during weekday rush hours if possible for paid camping, Shenandoah National Park's Big Meadows Campground puts you right in the heart of the mountains, with access to some of the park's best trails just steps from your site. First Landing State park near Virginia beach offers a wooded, well shaded campground just minutes from the Oceana rare combination on this part of the coast for free or low cost camping, the George Washington and Jefferson National Forests allow dispersed camping across large sections of public land in the western mountains, one of the more generous free camping policies in the state, though specific rules vary by district and should be confirmed ahead of time. Colonial Williamsburg's own resorts let you stay within walking distance of the historic area, often including special access to the recreated colonial town. After the day crowds have gone home. Virginia Beach's oceanfront hotels put you steps from the sand, a classic summer setup for families that has worked for generations. And Charlottesville's Wine Country Inns offer a quieter, more upscale stay surrounded by vineyards and mountain views perfect for a slower paced few days away from the coast. Amtrak's Virginia Service connects Richmond, Williamsburg and Northern Virginia with with regular rail service reaching all the way into Washington D.C. and beyond. The Washington Metro extends into Northern Virginia, making a car free day trip into the capital genuinely simple from several Virginia suburbs and the historic Jamestown Scotland Ferry, completely free, carries vehicles across the James River, a fun and practical way to connect the historic Triangle area without a long detour. Virginia's food culture runs deep and proud.
[00:06:03] Smithfield ham salt cured using a centuries old process, is considered by many the gold standard of Southern country ham. Virginia peanuts grown in the state's southeastern soil are famously large and flavorful, sold roasted at roadside stands across the region. Brunswick stew, a slow cooked tomato based stew with meat and vegetables, is a beloved regional comfort food, with towns on both sides of the Virginia border still claiming to have invented it first. And Chesapeake oysters harvested right from the bay are a genuine point of local pride, served raw, fried or roasted, depending on where you order them. Spend an afternoon wine tasting through the Monticello Wine Trail, sampling vintages at family run vineyards with mountain views in every direction you look. Take a step back in time at Colonial Williamsburg, where costume blacksmiths and printers actually practice their trades exactly as they did centuries ago on the same streets. Hike Old Rag Mountain in Shenandoah for one of the most rewarding rock scrambling summit views on the entire east coast, and catch a boat out to Tangier island for a slower, quieter day surrounded by watermen still working the bay the traditional way their families always have. Summer means peak beach season in Virginia beach, with warm water and a packed boardwalk from Memorial Day through Labor Day every year.
[00:07:28] Shenandoah national park sees its best hiking weather in early summer, before the muggier heat of August settles in over the ridges and valleys, and Charlottesville's wine country hosts festivals and outdoor tastings nearly every summer weekend, a great way to combine mountain views with a relaxed afternoon. Northern Virginia and the Virginia beach oceanfront run noticeably higher, especially for lodging in peak summer season. The Shenandoah Valley and rural western Virginia are dramatically more affordable, with camping often running 25 to $40 a night and hearty meals well under $15 a plate.
[00:08:05] Balancing a coastal or northern Virginia stretch with a mountain stretch keeps your overall trip budget very manageable from start to finish. Cell coverage is strong along I95, I81 and throughout Northern Virginia and the coastal areas, with reliable signal for navigation and streaming in most populated regions. Coverage drops noticeably in the more remote sections of Shenandoah national park and the western mountain forests, so download offline maps before heading into those quieter backcountry areas. That's Virginia, a state holding colonial history, mountain wilderness and beach town energy all inside one deeply storied set of borders.
[00:08:45] Next time we're heading into Delaware, a small state with a big coastline, quiet beach towns and a surprisingly rich Revolutionary War history of its own. Pack the cooler and I'll see you there.