Episode Transcript
[00:00:00] Welcome back to Exploring America, State by state after the boardwalks and Dupont Estates of Delaware, Today we're heading into West Virginia, a state that feels like a completely different world from anything we've covered so far on this trip. West Virginia is known as the Mountain State and that nickname undersells it if anything, with the entire state sitting inside the Appalachian Range folded into deep gorges, dense forest and winding rivers, this is the state John Denver sang about in Take Me Home Country Roads. And once you're actually driving through it, you understand exactly why. West Virginia also carries a proud coal mining heritage, some of the best whitewater rafting in the country, and a genuine sense of rugged, unpolished beauty that rewards travelers willing to slow down on the curves. The Highland Scenic Highway, Route 150, climbs to some of the highest paved elevations in the state of Cutting through the Monongahela National Forest, with overlooks stretching across endless ridgelines. Route 19 near Fayetteville takes you right past the New River Gorge Bridge, one of the longest steel span bridges in the world, with a canyon rim boardwalk offering jaw dropping views straight down into the gorge. Route 33 near Seneca Rocks winds through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in the east, with the jagged rock formation itself rising suddenly out of the valley floor, and the drive up to Blackwater Falls State park through the Canaan Valley delivers thick forest and misty overlooks that feel genuinely remote. Dali Sad's Wilderness looks almost nothing like the rest of West Virginia, with windswept plains, scattered boulders and low vegetation that genuinely resembles Arctic tundra at high elevation.
[00:01:45] Cass Scenic Railroad lets you ride a restored steam locomotive up a former logging line, climbing steep grades through forest most visitors never expect to see from a century old train car. Lost World Caverns near Lewisburg offers a self guided underground tour through massive natural chambers with barely another visitor in sight most weekdays. And Green bank, home to the National Radio Astronomy Observatory, sits inside a designated quiet zone where where cell signals and even microwaves are restricted to protect the giant telescope's sensitive equipment. The New River Gorge, now the country's newest national park, offers whitewater rafting, rock climbing and that iconic bridge view that has become one of the most photographed spots in Appalachia. Harper's Ferry, sitting right at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, packs Civil War history and stunning river views into one perfectly preserved historic town. The Greenbrier, a grand historic resort in White Sulphur Springs, hides a genuine Cold War era underground bunker built to shelter Congress, now open for public tours, and Seneca Rocks draws climbers and hikers from around the country to its dramatic quartzite cliffs rising nearly 900ft above the valley. A few things worth Harpers Ferries souvenir shops along the main tourist strip tend to charge more than shops just a few blocks up the hill in the quieter part of town, whitewater rafting outfitters sometimes push expensive add on packages that duplicate what's already included in your base trip, so read the fine print before upgrading and during peak Gauley season in the fall, some lodging near the river bumps prices significantly, so booking early or visiting during regular summer rafting season can save real money. West Virginia's mountain roads can be steep and winding, so plan extra time and check your brakes before long descents, especially on routes like Highland Scenic highway and the roads around Seneca Rocks. The major interstates I79, I64 and I77 offer wider, more comfortable routes for larger rigs connecting the state's main regions. Once you're off the interstate, expect slower average speeds and narrower shoulders, which is honestly part of the charm if you give yourself enough time for paid camping. Babcock State park offers a scenic, well maintained campground near the historic Glade Creek Grist Mill, one of the most photographed spots in the state. Blackwater Falls State park and the campgrounds along the New River Gorge, some managed by the Army Corps of Engineers, put you close to rafting, put ins and hiking trails for free or low cost. Camping the Monongahela National Forest allows dispersed camping across large sections of public land, one of the more generous free camping policies in the entire Appalachian region, though specific rules vary by district. The Greenbrier offers one of the most luxurious historic resort stays in the entire country, complete with golf, spa treatments and that famous underground bunker tour. Canaan Valley Resort, tucked into the high mountains near Blackwater Falls, combines skiing in winter with hiking and golf in summer at a much more affordable rate. And Harpers Ferry's small historic inns put you within walking distance of the national park and the river confluence, a genuinely charming home base for exploring the area. West Virginia is a car dependent state with no major public transit system connecting its mountain towns, so a personal vehicle or RV is genuinely the best way to see it. Amtrak does stop in Harpers Ferry along its route between Washington, D.C. and Chicago, offering a scenic rail option for that particular corner of the state. Beyond that, expect to drive between destinations, which is honestly part of the appeal given how beautiful the roads themselves are. West Virginia's food culture centers on hearty, simple comfort food. The pepperoni roll, soft bread baked around a stick of Pepperoni was invented here for coal miners needing a portable no utensil lunch and it remains the state's most iconic snack. Biscuits and gravy show up on nearly every breakfast menu across the state, thick and filling before a day of hiking or rafting in early spring. Ramps, a wild leek with a strong garlic like flavor, are celebrated at dedicated festivals across the mountains. And a proper West Virginia hot dog topped with chili, slaw, mustard and onions all at once is a beloved regional tradition worth trying at least once.
[00:06:24] Take on the whitewater rapids of the New river or the Gauley river, both considered among the best whitewater runs in the entire country.
[00:06:32] Ride the Cass Scenic Railroad steam locomotive up into the mountains for a genuinely nostalgic afternoon. Camp under some of the darkest skies on the east coast near Dolly Sads or Green bank, where the Radio Quiet Zone makes for genuinely spectacular stargazing. And if you visit in October, Bridge Day at the New River Gorge lets you watch base jumpers leap from the bridge itself, a genuinely wild once a year spectacle. Summer is peak whitewater rafting season on the New river, with warm water and reliable flows through the entire season. Blackwater Falls and the surrounding Canaan Valley offer cool mountain hiking and swimming, a welcome escape from summer heat elsewhere, and wildflower blooms across Dali sods in early summer make for some of the most rewarding high elevation hiking in the state.
[00:07:21] West Virginia is genuinely one of the more affordable states on this entire trip, with camping often running 20 to $35 a night and hearty meals well under $15 almost everywhere outside the resorts. The Greenbrier is the clear splurge exception, running well above the rest of the state's typical prices. Rafting trips and guided tours add a real cost, so budget those separately from your basic lodging and food expenses.
[00:07:48] Cell coverage in West Virginia is genuinely the spottiest we've encountered on this trip so far, with mountainous terrain blocking signal across large stretches of the state, especially in the Monongahela National Forest and Dali Saads. Greenbank's Radio Quiet Zone actually restricts cell signals entirely by law to protect the observatory.
[00:08:09] Download offline maps well before you arrive, since you may go hours without any signal at all in the more remote mountain areas.
[00:08:17] That's West Virginia, a rugged mountainous state holding whitewater rivers, coal mining history and some of the darkest skies on the entire East Coast. Next time we're heading into Ohio, a state of rolling farmland, industrial river cities and small towns that quietly shaped much of modern American history.
[00:08:36] Pack the cooler and I'll see you there.
